184 BUGUEY - CRAB CAPITAL OF THE PHILIPPINES

 

BUGUEY - CRAB CAPITAL OF THE PHILIPPINES

Dr. Troy Alexander G. Miano

27 October 2023

I was struck with awe when I witnessed a metric ton of crabs piled in one site during the Buguey 2nd Crab Festival 2023. I again looked around the festival grounds to make sure that I am in the Philippines. I experienced this scenario of seeing hundreds of crabs when I was in Baltimore City in Maryland, USA in 2004. I was sent in the United States as a member of the Group Study Exchange cum Ambassador of Goodwill and Understanding of the Rotary International and we got the rare chance of swooping the Chesapeake Bay area where the famous blue crabs (Callinectes sapidus) are bred, propagated, preserved and served in restaurants. For a couple of days, I would order crabcakes with tartar sauce on every meal which later gave me dizziness and stomachaches.

During my younger years, my paternal grandmother, Consorcia Tarrayo Ybañez would bring pasalubongs from Calbayog City, Samar to our apartment in Kamias, Quezon City. Products such as tinapa (smoked fish) from barangay Matobato, sisi (fermented small clams), pasayan (shrimp) and masag (crab) would flood our dining table. Whenever we go bakasyon during summer break in the city where my father, Narciso, served as an erstwhile city mayor, the pasayan and masag were our food for breakfast, lunch and dinner at our ancestral house located at No. 456 Cajurao Street, barangay Balud. In the metropolis, we seldom have alimasag and alimango for food since prices of these crabs are way beyond my mother’s budget.

The Department of Tourism (DOT), Regional Office 02, proudly joined the vibrant festivities at the Crab Festival. Buguey Mayor Licerio “Ceri” M. Antiporda III, the man behind the institutionalization of the crab festival, spearheaded and commenced the festivities early yesterday with a parade of street dancers from the elementary schools and a showdown by high school learners at the municipal gymnasium.

In my speech, DOT Region 2 made a commitment to provide technical assistance to the local government unit (LGU), reinforcing the department's dedication to supporting the municipality. We also pledged to develop additional tourism circuits that include Buguey in the regional tourism network, further enhancing the area's tourism potential and contributing to regional economic growth.

The Crab Festival, now in its second year, showcased the unique and colorful traditions of Buguey. Among the highlights of this remarkable event were the mesmerizing "crab dance" performances, an enchanting display that pays homage to the tireless efforts of the local fisherfolk who depend on the bountiful crab harvest. Mr. and Ms. Teen Crab Buguey at crab cooking contest were also cheered by the Bugueyanos, visitors and guests.

The pinnacle of the festival was the unveiling of the impressive Crab Monument, a towering structure that stands as a symbol of Buguey's commitment to the preservation and sustainable management of the crab population. It serves as a constant reminder of the importance of nurturing the delicate balance of nature and supporting local industries.

One of the festival's most anticipated moments was the indulgent "Crabtastic Lunch" provided by the LGU who generously served a metric ton of succulent mangrove crabs. This not only delighted the taste buds of attendees but also emphasized the integral role crabs play in the culinary heritage of the region. A unique showcase of lechon being cut on its belly with kilos of crabs within was also a sight to ponder.

The Crab Festival is an annual tradition celebrated every October in alignment with the time when fisherfolks witness the abundance of crab catches. Mayor Ceri underscored the importance of protecting this species called rasa or mudcrab (Scylla serrata) for the sake of sustainability, making it a call to action for all attendees. It is through this commitment to preservation that LGU has been able to garner support from various line agencies to bolster their crab industry.

Furthermore, the LGU has high expectations for yet another return on investment (ROI), this time from the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI), to fund the establishment of a state-of-the-art cold chain facility. This facility will enhance the quality and accessibility of crab products, contributing to the overall development of the local industry.

Mayor Ceri said that “This is a thanksgiving for crab farmers and others to promote our products… The town has also earmarked funds for crab farmers through its crab industry development research regulatory extension and livelihood assistance to boost the industry…We will be working to produce frozen crabs which are export-quality.”

Aside from the rasa, Mayor Ceri initiated the Guraman and Malaga Festival on the last week of July this year when locals and visitors came together to revel in the delectable flavors of guraman and malaga (sinagid) and partake in various cultural and culinary festivities culminated with the “Longest Grilling of Malaga” last July 28 of this year with 2,000 kilos of malaga on a 350-foot grill. Another Buguey festival is the Lechon Festival celebrated every April which showcases the mastery of lechoneros in crafting the perfect roast pig. These festivals are a reflection of Buguey’s rich culinary heritage and the close connection between its people and the bountiful land and sea that sustain them.

Buguey was formally established as a Spanish mission in 1596 and has a vast territory including what are now the towns of Santa Teresita, Gonzaga and Santa Ana. The name “Buguey” probably came from the word “bugay”, which in the Ibanag dictionary of Fr. Antonio Lobato, OP., mean “shipwreck”. The place was given the said name probably because the shipwrecks that must have occurred there during those early times. A popular legend states that the Moro pirates looted the town's church and brought its bell with them to sea, whereupon their vessel capsized, leading residents to shout navugay ira (they have capsized). “Navugay ira” was later shortened to “Vugay” which evolved to “Buguey”.